A few days in the Empordà: inland villages, local tradition and the Costa Brava
What to see in the Empordà in a weekend: charming villages, tradition, local gastronomy and landscapes of the Costa Brava.
The Empordà has something that's hard to explain. It's not just the sea, nor simply the stone villages nestled among the fields. It's not just the paths through the forests or the constant proximity of the Costa Brava . It's a blend of landscape, tradition, and daily life that preserves a deeply local identity.
Between Girona and the Mediterranean, this region of northeastern Catalonia encompasses small medieval villages, artisan workshops, family-run businesses, and a rugged coastline that has defined the iconic image of the Costa Brava . But beyond the coves and summer postcards, the Empordà is best revealed inland: in its markets, its cobbled streets, its tranquil squares, and its unhurried way of life.
In many of these villages, the agricultural landscape is an integral part of the travel experience. Rural lanes winding through open fields, peaceful routes for walking or cycling , and accommodations seamlessly integrated into the environment invite you to slow down and reconnect with the land. Old stone houses transformed into charming guesthouses , small rural projects where life moves at a slower pace—the Empordà region offers a more leisurely way of traveling, where landscape, local culture, and relaxation coexist naturally.
This tour proposes two days between inland villages of the Empordà and the nearby Costa Brava, combining crafts, local gastronomy and landscapes that invite you to travel slowly.
Day 1 — Inland Empordà: villages with history and local crafts
The first day in Empordà invites you to explore the inland villages, where the rural landscape and local life continue to set the daily rhythm.
Sant Jordi Desvalls
Just a few minutes from Diana, the small village where Lohodi Homes Casas Rurales is located, you'll find Sant Jordi Desvalls , a quiet municipality in the Gironès region situated near the Ter River.
With just under a thousand inhabitants, it boasts a well-preserved old town center where cobbled streets wind between medieval stone houses. The Baroque church of Sant Jordi dominates the town, while the remains of ancient buildings recall the area's historical past, linked to an old Roman road that once crossed the territory.
Today the atmosphere is peaceful. Bicycles cross through the town, neighbors chat in the square, and rural roads wind through cultivated fields.
One of the most authentic places is Supermercado Nonell , known to many locals simply as Bell's shop. This small, family-run grocery store offers local produce, natural wines, bulk legumes, regional cured meats, and freshly baked bread. More than just a shop, it serves as a village meeting point and a great place to discover local products from the Empordà region.
La Bisbal d'Empordà: the capital of ceramics
About twenty minutes away by car is La Bisbal d'Empordà , considered the ceramics capital of Catalonia.
The municipality's ceramic tradition dates back to the 16th century thanks to the local red clay, which was especially malleable and allowed the development of a craft industry that still defines its identity today.
A stroll through La Bisbal is to discover workshops, old industrial chimneys and shop windows full of pieces in the traditional colors of Catalan ceramics: ochres, greens and blues.
The Terracotta Museum explains the evolution of this tradition over more than five hundred years, while numerous workshops continue to produce handcrafted pieces. The many shops and workshops dedicated to artisanal ceramics are located along Carrer de l'Aigüeta , at the entrance to the town.
Among them, Sampere stands out, where you can observe the complete process of making handmade tableware inspired by the Mediterranean.
The visit also invites you to stop at historic shops that preserve the local character of the town. One of them is Drogueria Farreny , founded at the end of the 19th century, a family shop that has been passed down through several generations and still maintains that traditional feel, offering products that are hard to find elsewhere.
For a sweet break, Pastisseria Font , open since 1921, is one of the town's historic cafes. Its specialties—like the cántir or the mil·leni—perfectly reflect the relationship between local pastry making and the area's ceramic tradition.
VIEWS FROM PONT AU CHANGE
On the outskirts of La Bisbal, along the road connecting the town to Corçà , the area's ceramic tradition continues with Cerámica La Ponderosa . This artisan workshop creates unique, handmade pieces for both indoor and outdoor use, from flowerpots and lamps to vases and decorative plates, crafted using traditional techniques that still define the artisan character of the Empordà region.
Right across the street is Última Parada Vintage Shop , perfect for those who enjoy discovering traditional or historical objects. The shop occupies a large warehouse organized into different rooms where tableware, handcrafted ceramics, photography, furniture, and decorative pieces, all carefully selected, coexist. For lovers of tableware and decor, it functions as a small universe of objects where it's easy to find unique and special pieces to take home.
Colomers: gastronomy in the town square
Following the course of the Ter river, you will find Colomers , one of the smallest municipalities in Baix Empordà , situated amidst agricultural landscapes and rural paths ideal for walking or cycling.
Its heart retains its medieval layout with narrow streets, traditional houses, and the Romanesque church of Santa Maria presiding over the whole. The atmosphere is peaceful and authentic, very representative of the Empordà region.
In the small Plaça de l'Església of Colomers you will find Toc de Vi , a restaurant that champions Catalan cuisine and local wines with a menu deeply connected to the region.
The project was born from Eva Gilabert and Marc Dolçat , two people from Empordà who decided to return to their village to create a space to share what defines the local culture: wine, gastronomy and conversation around the table.
The menu is built around locally sourced produce and traditional Catalan recipes, with dishes designed for sharing and preparations that change with the seasons. While Marc moves between the kitchen and the dining room, Eva—the sommelier—guides the experience with a wine selection that highlights small Catalan producers and wines from the Empordà region. The result is an intimate and welcoming space where you can eat and savor the local flavors through its gastronomy.
Pals, an essential medieval stop
Although it is not always included in the shortest itineraries, Pals is one of the best preserved medieval sites in the Empordà.
Located in the Baix Empordà region, its Gothic historic center preserves walls, cobbled streets, and the iconic Clock Tower that dominates the town's skyline. Just a few kilometers from the sea, the landscape is completed by the traditional rice paddies of Pals , the source of one of the region's most renowned culinary products.
Day 2 — Costa Brava: sea, paths and charming villages
After exploring the interior, the second day inevitably leads to the Costa Brava. In just a few kilometers, the landscape changes: the green of the fields gives way to the deep blue of the Mediterranean.
L'Escala and the ruins of Empúries
L'Escala is one of the most representative towns on this part of the Girona coast. Its seafaring tradition is still very much alive in the old town, where fishmongers, bars, and small anchovy shops are a reminder of the importance of this product in the local cuisine.
One of the most interesting places in the municipality is the archaeological complex of Empúries , unique in the Iberian Peninsula where remains of an ancient Greek city and a Roman city coexist with more than 2,500 years of history.
The seafront promenade allows you to stroll among small coves and beaches open to the Mediterranean. From here also begins one of the most scenic sections of the Camí de Ronda , the coastal path that runs along much of the Costa Brava.
This section connects Cala Montgó with Sant Martí d'Empúries along a stretch of about eight kilometers, passing through cliffs, pine forests and natural viewpoints overlooking the sea.
As evening falls, the Passeig Marítim offers a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for stopping for a drink with panoramic views of the sea and the Catalan Pyrenees as a backdrop. Places like Ultramar Club combine Mediterranean cuisine, cocktails, and live music overlooking the Mediterranean.
Begur and Sa Tuna cove
About thirty minutes away lies Begur , one of the most beautiful towns on the Costa Brava. Perched atop a hill, its medieval castle offers open views of the sea and the mountains surrounding the town.
The historic center invites you to get lost among cobbled streets, Indian houses, the San Ramón Tower and small corners that appear unexpectedly, such as the famous colorful staircases .
For lunch or dinner, Clara , located next to the Aiguaclara hotel, offers Mediterranean cuisine designed for sharing, with very tasty seasonal dishes and local wines in a spacious, bright and pleasant environment, marked by the color red that combines vintage aesthetics with bohemian details.
Just a ten-minute drive from the town center lies Cala Sa Tuna , one of Begur's most picturesque coves . Surrounded by pine trees and old fishermen's houses, its crystal-clear waters and small harbor create one of the most recognizable images of the Costa Brava.
The plan here is simple: walk along the promenade, sit facing the sea, or get lost on the hill among the white houses that look out towards the cove.
The sea breeze, charged with negative ions, generates that feeling of calm that many people experience when spending time near the sea.
Beyond a specific itinerary, what defines the Empordà is its way of life: small villages, family businesses, artisan workshops and a nature that changes its landscape in just a few kilometers.
In a single weekend you can go from the inland countryside to the coves of the Costa Brava, visit local markets, pottery workshops or simply sit in a square and observe daily life.
For those who want to explore the territory at a leisurely pace and pause between the interior and the coast, staying at Lohodi Homes allows you to experience the Empordà from within, surrounded by nature and just a few minutes from both the inland villages and the Mediterranean.
Photographs from Le Periplo
